Tuesday, June 7, 2011

Antwerp with Kids - Part I


I've written about the motherland, Würzburg, Germany, where my mother's from, but that's only half of my ancestry.  My father's family is from Antwerp, Belgium.  Starting with my father, the males in my family born in Antwerp can be traced back to 1670.  Almost all their wives were born there too.  I am the first American born on either side of my family.  Even my older brother was born in Germany before my parents immigrated to the U.S.

So I've spent a lot of time in the Flemish town of Antwerp.  It's a wonderful "little" big city, with lots of family-friendly sights and activities that I enjoyed as a child myself and as a parent, since I've taken my two kids there twice.  The city is not overly crowded with tourists, is condensed enough to mostly walk to all attractions, and specializes in two delicacies that even your pickiest little eater will clamor for:  Belgian waffles and french fries.


   Legend has it, at least in my family, that french fries are misnamed.  The French didn't invent them at all, the Flemish did.  Hence, the writing of my uncle's book, "Flemish Fries," to clear up that little misnomer.  But I digress.  That's a topic for another post.


Antwerp Central Station
The first thing you will notice, if you arrive in Antwerp by train, is Antwerp Central Station.  It is a tremendous architectural monument completed in 1905, with a neo-baroque façade and an enormous metal and glass dome above the waiting room hall.  The gilt and marble interior of the station is as grand as some cathedrals I've seen.



Antwerp Zoo
The second thing you will notice - again, if you arrive by train, that is - is the Antwerp Zoo, which butts up right next to the train station.  One of the oldest zoos in the world, this 25 acre park is a leading advocate of animal research and conservation.  Admission is €14 for adults, €9.50 for children 3-11, free for children under 3.  Don't miss the very cool nocturnal animal exhibit below the aquarium.

At Brabo's statue in the Grote Markt
Grote Markt
Grote Markt in 1966, before cars were banned.
Rivaling the Grand Place (town square) in Brussels in beauty and grandeur, Antwerp's Grote Markt (market square) is a jewel of 16th century architecture.  Surrounded by richly decorated Guildhouses and overlooked by the ornately gabled Stadhuis (town hall), this town square is where you'll want to kick back for a while with the kids.  Cars are prohibited, and the area is large and roomy.  Best of all, the square has built-in water play for kids, in the form of a very large statue of Antwerp's symbol, Brabo, the mythical hero who saved the city from the cruelties of a giant named Antigoon.  The statue's fountains splash water onto the pavement, and my kids both love to get wet (we always visit in the summer) and play here.  This gives my husband and me the time to admire the details on the remarkable Renaissance buildings or sit at a café and enjoy a glass of delicious Belgian beer.  (Try the locally brewed De Koninck beer.  Or a glass of Duvel, with its formidable alcohol content of 8.5%.)

Left Bank
When my brother and I were young, my parents liked to take us across Antwerp's River Scheldt to Sint-Anneke beach.  Half the fun is getting there:  you can walk from the old town just south of the Grote Markt to the entrance of a pedestrian tunnel under the river to the left bank (Linkeroever).  Young children will find the prospect of walking under a riverbed especially fascinating.  Ten minutes or so on foot and you come out the other side, with excellent views of the Antwerp skyline and cathedral spire.  Sint-Anneke beach is to the right.  There's sand to play in, a terrific nautical playground, and an outdoor swimming pool just steps away.

My brother and I playing at Sint-Anneke beach in Antwerp.

Monday, June 6, 2011

Movie Monday: Star Wars: Episode II - Attack of the Clones

•  •  •  •  •  •  •  •  •  •  •  •  •  •  •  •
To Europe With Kids presents Movie Monday as a weekly feature to recommend films that might expose children and their families to any small bit of European history, folklore, scenery, or animated imagery as entertainment, perhaps new knowledge, or just a couple of hours of electronic babysitting.
•  •  •  •  •  •  •  •  •  •  •  •  •  •  •  •


"Hey kids!  Wanna explore travel through movies filmed in Europe?!"

"No, mom, that's boring."

"Wanna watch Star Wars?"

"Yeahhh!!"



Villa Arconati Visconti del Balbianello
You can be the hero, mom or dad, when you accomplish both travel exploration AND obsession fulfillment by recommending Star Wars: Episode II - Attack of the Clones, filmed in part in Italy and Andalucía, Spain, for family movie night.  Tunisia gets the most frequent mention by the films' scenery fans for the unusual barren landscapes of Luke and Anakin Skywalker's home planet, Tatooine, but this Attack of the Clones episode includes many scenes filmed on the gorgeous shores of Lake Como in Italy.  Padmé Amidala's (Natalie Portman) terraced garden retreat where she and Anakin (Hayden Christensen) hide out and get married is the 16th century Villa Arconati Visconti del Balbianello in the town of Lenno overlooking the mountains and waters of Lake Como.  Padmé's palace on her home world of Naboo is actually the Royal Palace of Caserta in southern Italy near Naples, an enormous royal residence inspired by the Palace of Versailles.  Some changes were made to the structure with computer graphics, but the visuals are splendid.  Other scenes on Naboo were filmed at the Plaza de España in Seville, Spain, the semicircular arched gallery where Padmé, Anakin, and R2D2 take a walk.

Photo from www.sevillaonline.es.

I doubt anyone needs a plot summary here of the Star Wars saga, nor a link to the trailer, so - if you don't (gasp!) own the prequel and sequel trilogies - rent it or queue it up on the DVR and enjoy the adventure.


Other Movie Monday posts:

Saturday, June 4, 2011

Winter Warmwear

I've been reading up on dressing for cold weather in preparation for next winter's trip to Switzerland.  I'm a warm weather gal, and have never really been in freezing temperatures for longer than an afternoon of skiing.  "Layers" seems to be everyone's answer to dressing for the cold.  Okay.  But how many layers?  Doesn't all that bunched up fabric eventually cause difficulty bending at the elbows and the knees?  I don't want to amble through Zurich like the Stay Puft Marshmallow Man.

When I typed "How to dress in layers for cold weather" into Google, I got a very helpful link to REI with some useful information.  REI recommends a base layer, a fleece layer, and then a warm waterproof jacket or shell.  The most important layer, I've learned, is apparently the base layer next to your skin.  According to REI and several other outdoorsy websites, the base layer should be crafted from a moisture-wicking fabric, i.e. some kind of polyester blend, and definitely not from cotton because cotton absorbs moisture.  So here's my question:  why are all my old thermal underwear sets (yeah, okay, they're from the '90s) 100% cotton?  And when I search on-line for warmwear I find lots of waffle knit thermals made from cotton.


Are these for people (like me) who might not be aware of the dangers and discomfort of traipsing out into freezing temperatures without the modern protection of moisture-wicking?  Or are they for people (like me) who flinch at the price of hi-tech synthetic apparel they will probably only wear once or twice?

And I don't even want to discuss the lower half of my body.  I can barely button my jeans as it is, not to mention attempting it with "layers" on underneath.  Should I buy a couple pairs of jeans two sizes too big?  For heaven's sake, what's that going to look like?  I can tell you right now you won't see any photographs of me from the waist down next year in Switzerland.

Friday, June 3, 2011

Photo Friday: Erasmus Bridge


My 11 year old son took this very artistic photo of the Erasmus Bridge in Rotterdam, the Netherlands, last summer when we were crossing it on our bikes.  It is the longest cable-stayed bridge in the world and spans 2,600 feet across the river.

Check out DeliciousBaby.com for other great travel photos.

Thursday, June 2, 2011

There's No Time Like Free Time

Even though I'm an überplanner when it comes to traveling, you have to be careful not to over-schedule when the kids are especially little.  Children can become quickly fatigued by cathedrals, ruins, museums, and restaurants.  They need down time and ordinary play time.  And it really helps mom and dad not to feel anxious about down time ("We don't have time for this!"  "We have so many more sights to see!") if it's actually planned for in the schedule.  At least that's the way it works for me.

The first time we took our kids to Europe my son was 6 years old, and he was fascinated by the different coins and money.  He wanted to collect every one of the different pounds sterling in England.  Each time he got a new one he would immediately make a coin rubbing in his little travel journal.  It was so cute!  And now, at age 12, he still remembers that about that trip.


Hubby and I really wanted to tour the inside of Parliament in London, but spent the afternoon watching my daughter do cartwheels on the lawn out front of the gorgeous building instead.  That's okay.  We still haven't seen the inside, but it's really okay.


We've let the kids play for hours making a big soapy mess in the hotel bathtub (particularly fun for them since we wouldn't allow that at home), we've sat and watched drawbridges go up and down, locks and sluices open and close, fed birds, and even still stop to play on playground equipment.

Drawbridge in Delft, the Netherlands.
Feeding swans in Halstatt, Austria.

Playground in Antwerp.
Simple things like exploring a toy store in Germany, or an outdoor market in Italy, can be entertaining.  Even supermarkets can be interesting in a foreign country - make a game out of finding the Nutella in a store you've never been in.  Studying city maps and metro maps is not only educational but lots of fun for kids.  And the best thing about down time, is that all these activities are free!




Tuesday, May 31, 2011

Waffle Around

Look what I found at the local supermarket:


Maybe these little packaged Belgian waffles are nothing new to you, but today was the first time I came across them out here on the west coast.  And any time I spot Belgium's black, yellow, and red flag it catches my eye, because it's a very rare sighting, so of course I bought some.  The taste was okay, just a little sweeter than an Eggo Waffle, but the idea was to bring back memories of the freshly baked, lightly browned, golden waffles we had in Antwerp, Belgium, last summer.


The ravishing waffles above, just out of the oven, were in a bakery we passed while walking near the Groenplaats city square.  They're street waffles, just a little snack you pick up while shopping or strolling, like an ice cream cone or a hot dog.  And you don't need syrup, because they are absolutely, deliciously tasty just by themselves.  Take a look at the waffle my daughter is holding below:


It's dipped in chocolate.  Can I just say it was to die for?  Oh em gee.  

Monday, May 30, 2011

Movie Monday: The Secret of Roan Inish

•  •  •  •  •  •  •  •  •  •  •  •  •  •  •  •
To Europe With Kids presents Movie Monday as a weekly feature to recommend films that might expose children and their families to any small bit of European history, folklore, scenery, or animated imagery as entertainment, perhaps new knowledge, or just a couple of hours of electronic babysitting.
•  •  •  •  •  •  •  •  •  •  •  •  •  •  •  •


Roan Inish is the name of an island, not the little girl, in this movie few people have seen.  The Secret of Roan Inish came out in 1994 and is rated PG, though I can't imagine why it's not rated G.  It's definitely a family movie, as children especially will enjoy the magic and mystery in the tale of Fiona, a sweet young Irish girl, searching for her baby brother who was lost at sea.  The film is heartwarming, rich in Irish culture, and is accompanied by distinctive Irish fiddle music that immerses you in this story about legend, lore, and family.

The movie was filmed entirely in rugged and mountainous County Donegal, Ireland, a haven of Gaelic culture and the Irish language.  (You might have to turn on the English subtitles for the kids.)  The visuals in the film are mainly of the jagged coastline, the small outlying islands, and the untamed sea.

Image via www.hummingbirdgirls.blogspot.com

Donegal is actually a tourist destination among the Irish and foreigners, as well.  Popular attractions are a Victorian castle, called Glenveagh Castle, and a 35,000 acre nature reserve, called Glenveagh National Park.


Other Movie Monday posts:

Friday, May 27, 2011

Photo Friday: In Honor of the Fallen


In honor of all fallen American soldiers this Memorial Day, a photo of my brother and my niece, visiting Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial in Colleville-sur-Mer, Normandy, France.

Photo Friday is hosted every week by DeliciousBaby.com.

Wednesday, May 25, 2011

Fire Up

I get so fired up when I'm planning a big trip.  Really, that's why my husband encouraged me to start a blog, because all the planning and research energizes me and I guess he likes to see that side of me more than my usual low-energy self.  (Have I ever mentioned how much I like to sleep?  At least 9 - 10 hours a night.  And a nap during the day.  But when I'm working on travel I'll stay up until the wee hours.)  Many people don't like to plan, but I am meticulous.  The more information I have, the less can go wrong.  (Right?)  I am detail-oriented and do not cope well with chaos and confusion.

Chaos and confusion are exactly what I want to avoid when I'm traveling overseas with 8 teenage girls this December, so thoughts race through my head all day long faster than I can even write them down:

• Should we stay one night or two in Zurich?
• Remind the girls to bring their own electrical adapters (so they don't share mine).
• Find out if our hostels have free wifi.
• Will we have to rent sheets and towels at our hostels?
• Tell the girls they must have a VisaBuxx or other prepaid credit card for emergencies.
• Should we get the Flexi or the SaverFlexi rail passes?
• How am I going to fit all those heavy winter clothes into one suitcase?

I have so much work to do!

Tuesday, May 24, 2011

Palmengarten in Frankfurt

Big metropolitan cities just don't feel as intimate or family-friendly as smaller towns, and Frankfurt, Germany, can definitely give the impression of a cold, hard city.  It is the largest financial center in continental Europe, home to one of the busiest international airports in the world, and the seat of the European Central Bank.  Frankfurt's significant number of skyscrapers and modern buildings are a direct contrast to the historical, centuries-old architecture of other Old World cities such as London and Paris.  Yet enjoyable, friendly attractions can be found in Frankfurt.

If you're visiting Frankfurt and would like to escape to a quiet, lush oasis, head over to the Palmengarten, a magnificent large botanical garden in the city.  Fifty acres of exotic plants and manicured parkland await you, with one of the largest glass greenhouses in the world filled with tropical rainforests and exquisite subtropical species.  There's a cacti garden, a rose garden, water lilies in various ponds, and an oriental garden.

I haven't been to the Palmengarten since I was a child, but I still keep these two postcards from my visits there:




Children can ride on the miniature train in the park, and rowboats are available to rent on the lake in the summer.  Kids will be delighted in the roaming peacocks and occasional wandering tortoises.  Also in the summer there are concerts and dancing in the evenings near the bandstand.  Admission to the Palmengarten is surprisingly inexpensive - only €5 for adults and €2 for children 14 and under.  Easily accessible by the U-Bahn (line U4, U6, or U7 to Bockenheimer Warte station), it's a great place to spend an entire day.

This post is part of Friday Daydreamin' at R We There Yet Mom?

Monday, May 23, 2011

Movie Monday: If It's Tuesday, This Must Be Belgium

•  •  •  •  •  •  •  •  •  •  •  •  •  •  •  •
To Europe With Kids presents Movie Monday as a weekly feature to recommend films that might expose children and their families to any small bit of European history, folklore, scenery, or animated imagery as entertainment, perhaps new knowledge, or just a couple of hours of electronic babysitting.
•  •  •  •  •  •  •  •  •  •  •  •  •  •  •  •



Although my husband and I have frequently quoted the title to this old film while on long vacations, I don't recall ever having actually seen this comedy before last week.  I know it's been on TV an infinite number of times since its release in 1969, but I finally queued it up on Netflix for the family.  If It's Tuesday, This Must Be Belgium was, well, a little silly and definitely dated, but you can't beat it for European scenery.

A group of mostly naïve travelers from the United States embark on a bus tour through seven countries in 18 days with Ian McShane as their womanizing tour guide.  Suzanne Pleshette, as one of the tourists, becomes his love interest and the romantic story line is relatively entertaining, mostly because they're both such talented actors.  The silliness is in the adventures and misadventures of the other characters, like the kleptomaniac and the couple who is separated when the wife boards the wrong tour bus.

Old movies move at a slower pace than today's films, which is an advantage when the scenery is terrific and you actually want to take it in.  McShane and Pleshette's romantic gondola ride through the quiet canals of Venice is prolonged and scenic enough to make you sigh, and the Rhine Valley river and castle scenes are stunning as well.  The tour begins in London, and the bus travels through the Netherlands, Belgium, Germany, and Italy.  I really enjoyed the scene where Pleshette is shopping for lace in Brussels, because I'm pretty sure she's in the Saint-Hubertus Royal Gallery, a truly grand shopping arcade in Brussels which I love to visit.

Saint-Hubertus Royal Gallery in Brussels
Whether or not younger children will sit through this old classic film for family movie night depends on the child(ren) of course, but it's worth a look if you plan on visiting Europe soon.  Watch the trailer here to check it out and see for yourself.


Other Movie Monday posts:


Friday, May 20, 2011

Photo Friday: Blame It On the Rain


C'mon, admit it . . . have you worn one of these while traveling or would you not be caught dead in one?

Photo Friday is graciously hosted by DeliciousBaby.com
.

Thursday, May 19, 2011

Gorgeous Grindelwald



Switzerland is well known for it’s meticulously clean and attractive youth hostels.  One of my favorites is Naturfreundehaus Grindelwald.  Of course, how can you go wrong in a town like Grindelwald?  A gorgeous Alpine village nestled in a valley in the Bernese Oberland, Grindelwald is surrounded by the snow-covered Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau mountains.  Spotted cows graze on the hillsides among charming little chalets sprouting red geraniums.  It’s postcard-picture-perfect.


Grindelwald is one of Europe’s oldest mountain resorts and has a long history of tourism.  In the summer, the extensive and plentiful hiking trails are busy, and in the winter, the skiing is nirvana.    

But Switzerland is oh-so-expensive, and that’s why it’s nice to have some more wallet-friendly alternatives like youth hostels.  And again, hostels in Switzerland are excessively clean and nice.  Naturfreundehaus Grindelwald is a cute rustic chalet that sits atop a hill with views more stunning than you'll find at a 5-star hotel.  Here is our unbeatable view from our room at the Naturfreundhaus:


Naturfreundehaus Grindelwald
Rates start as low as 31CHF per person.  Each room, with 2 to 6 beds (and one room with 12 beds), is spotlessly clean.  Breakfast buffet and lunch are served in the cozy dining room, and in the summer self cooking is available in the kitchen.  With three recreational rooms and a large outdoor garden, there's lots of room for kids to play.

Naturfreundehaus is about a 20 minute walk from the train station, which might be a little much with kids and luggage, but there's a local bus that will drop you off right in front of the hostel.

Excursions from Grindelwald include a network of cable cars to scenic mountaintops, cog wheel trains to other beautiful Alpine villages like nearby Lauterbrünnen, and glacier viewing.


Wednesday, May 18, 2011

Dutch Apple of My Eye

"It's as American as apple pie!" is an expression often heard, but we Americans don't exactly have the exclusive on this delicious flaky pastry.  Have you heard of Dutch apple pie?  Okay, maybe you have.  But surely you haven't heard of Café Kobus Kuch, where the best appeltaart in all of the Netherlands is baked and served daily.


Café Kobus Kuch (whose website, unfortunately, is only in Dutch) is located in the picturesque city of Delft, in the town square called Beestenmarkt near the historic city center.  Feel free to bring the kids here to eat, as the café's outdoor seating is spacious and away from vehicle traffic.  You'll find a delightful lunch menu of Dutch cuisine, such as a variety of fresh broodjes, fried eggs, fish, and soup.

But let's get back to that pie.  Just look at that photo above.  Freshly baked, warm apple tart with a pile of thick whipped cream on top - it's quite famous in the city of Delft, and claims to be the best in the country.  And yes, my family will personally vouch for that claim.  It was deeeliiicious.

Café Kobus Kuch is open Monday - Thursday from 9:30 a.m. to 1:00 a.m.; Friday - Saturday from 9:30 to 2:00 a.m.; and Sunday from 11:00 to 1:00 a.m.













Visit Delft!  It's a gorgeous city!
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