Unrest in the Albaicin

The old Arab quarter of the city of Granada in Spain is called the Albaicin (or Albayzin) and is a romantic hillside district with narrow winding streets and medieval Moorish structures.  The area is very steep and when we were there it seemed somewhat deserted - probably only because it was high noon on a very hot summer day.

We enjoyed roaming the quiet sector with its expansive views of the Alhambra, but then came upon something disconcerting - banners hung from balconies and posted leaflets clearly expressing unrest and discontent:

We found an explanation in English.

According to the SOS Albaicin website, the residents are protesting measures by the mayor that suppress public transportation to the area and redirect traffic circulation on the main thoroughfare. Their interest is in preserving the historic quarter.

Mercado de San Miguel in Madrid

I would have eaten every meal of the day at the Market of San Miguel in Madrid if I could have.  Grazing around and nibbling at all kinds of tapas and sweets is just my thing.  A little chorizo here, a few empanadillas there.  A glass of sangria if it's after noon and a bite of chocolate con churros in between.  Yum.  

The attractive, iron-structured, covered market in the heart of Madrid beside the Plaza Mayor is a great place for travelers to visit and shop.  There are over 30 stalls of pre-made delicacies, wine bars, florists, and fresh fruit and vegetables for purchase.

Why don't I let the photos do the talking:

You'll get no complaints from the kids if you're eating here because there's so much to choose from and there are plenty of french fry vendors!

Visiting Madrid With Kids

Puerta del Sol in Madrid

When I think of Madrid I think of hot.  Hot, dry, summer temperatures.  This capital of a country with over 5,000 miles of coastlines is probably farther from a cool ocean breeze than any other city in Spain. Just come prepared for the heat, plan a daily siesta, and see all there is to see in Madrid.

Puerta del Sol
Madrid is a walking city - everything is best explored on foot.  The Plaza Mayor and Puerte del Sol are very near each other - both off the Calle Mayor - and a good place to start your tour of the town.  Puerte del Sol is, in fact, the symbolic center of Spain, as so marked by the kilómetro cero, a plaque on the ground in front of the post office from which distances in the country can be measured.  (I've seen these in Paris and Budapest, too.)  The Puerte del Sol is a busy, bustling square with a couple of landmarks such as the old post office and the statue of the bear and madrone tree.

Kilómetro cero

Bear and madrone tree - symbol of Madrid.

Plaza Mayor
A short distance away is Plaza Mayor, an enormous rectangular central plaza enclosed by residences with lovely balconies and an equestrian statue of Philip III in the center.  The most notably beautiful section of the buildings is the Casa de la Panadería with hand-painted frescoes on its façade.  Plaza Mayor used to be the site of bullfights and public executions, but now there are restaurants and shops and just general strolling.

Mercado de San Miguel
If you're hungry, you can troll for some tapas in nearby Mercado de San Miguel, a covered market where you can sample just about any little Spanish delicacy you desire, or rehydrate with some fresh-squeezed juice (or maybe sangria?)

Tapas at Mercado de San Miguel.

Royal Palace
Madrid's Royal Palace is a stunning site to visit.  Built in the 1700s, it was home to several royal families, but is now only used for award ceremonies, royal audiences, banquets, and other special events.  The Changing of the Guard is an interesting ceremony for younger children especially, and it's held every Wednesday at 11:00 a.m. except in the summer months.  Our family took an audioguide tour that covered the interior and exterior grounds.  I love the grand Almudena Cathedral right across the plaza from the palace.

In the courtyard of the Royal Palace, Madrid.

Almudena Cathedral, as seen from the palace courtyard.

Chandelier in the Royal Palace.

Retiro Park
When temperatures soar in Madrid, a nice place to cool off is Retiro Park at the edge of the city center.  Shady and wooded, this park offers relaxation as well as activities.  There are play structures for children, free summer concerts on Sundays, street performers and puppet shows.  Rowboats can be rented and paddled around in the large artificial pond next to the spectacular King Alfonso XII monument.

Large semicircular collonnade monument to King Alfonso XII.

Prado Museum
On the same side of town as Retiro Park is the famous Prado Museum.  Goyas and El Grecos as well as Dutch masters fill the beautiful building and are worth a look, especially after 6:00 p.m. on Mondays through Saturdays when admission is free!  (Also free on Sundays after 5:00 p.m.)

Prado Museum in Madrid.

Snacks
For a late afternoon snack while walking around town, pick up some convent cookies from Convento de Corpus Christi or take a coffee break at Chocolatería San Ginés, the most famous churro bakery in Madrid.

Bullfighting
My husband and I attended a bullfight at Madrid's Plaza de Toros many, many years ago, and although we appreciated the cultural beauty of the art, we were mortified when the dead bull was dragged out of the arena.  Still, my kids insisted they wanted to see a bullfight.  Fortunately or unfortunately, there weren't any scheduled when we were in Madrid.  You can check performance dates and buy tickets here.

Plaza de Toros de las Ventas in Madrid

Evening Strolls
We liked taking evening walks around Madrid's Parque de la Montaña, where you will find - of all things - a 2nd century B.C. Egyptian temple that was gifted to Spain in the 1960s.  At this park you can also enjoy brilliant views of the Royal Palace at night.

Related posts:
Convent Cookies
Local Artists
Chocolatería San Ginés
Madrid Atocha Railway Station
Egyptian Temple in Madrid

Sleeping Cabin on the Train from Lisbon to Madrid

Oddly enough, the only direct train from Lisbon to Madrid, and vice versa, is a night train.  So, since we had no other way to get from the capital of Portugal to the Madrid airport for our flight home, we booked a 4-person sleeping cabin for $110 per person.  Expensive, I know.  When you compare our crowded, bumpy, noisy, 11 hour night on the train with a stay in an equally expensive luxury hotel, it's a little depressing.  But the experience was valuable for my kids, and I'd do it again.

I slept fine (with just a little help from a good pair of earplugs and a double dose of Advil PM), and my son and daughter said they slept alright.  But my husband had trouble.  He's about 6'1", and the bed was too short for him.  The beds are also somewhat narrow.  He said he hardly slept at all.

As you can see from my photos, the cabins are narrow with little room for luggage.  The bed linens are okay and the blankets aren't needed because the room gets stuffy and warm in the summer.  In the corner is a small sink with running water and each passenger is provided a little gift pack which includes earplugs, a bar of soap, a travel toothbrush and toothpaste.  Nice touch, I think.  We felt very safe because the door had a lock as well as a security chain.  I did tell the kids to wake one of us up if they had to go to the bathroom at night, though, just to be cautious.

My husband and daughter, who are early risers, strolled up to the dining car before dawn and had breakfast.  They both agreed it was a good meal, with fresh rolls and orange juice.  My daughter particularly enjoyed watching the sunrise from the train as the Spanish countryside swished by outside the window.

Another Exchange Student in Our Home

We have a new exchange student in our home.  He is from Spain, is 14 years old just like my son, and is absolutely adorable.  I think all four of us in our family would like to keep him forever.

Doing what 14 year old boys do best.

Some years ago we hosted our first exchange student, a young girl from Paris.  She and my daughter got along well and we all enjoyed the experience, so for some time I've been wanting to host a boy my son's age.  The perfect opportunity arose this summer.

Leo is from the city of Huelva, in Andalusia, which is so exciting for us because we drove right through there last summer.  It is a port city with lovely beaches and a maritime history.  We were invited to take him in as an exchange student by the same coordinator who handled our French student experience, through the SHARE! Program of Educational Resource Development Trust.  Leo traveled to the U.S. with a group of similar-aged Spanish school children who are all with different families in different homes.  They take a few excursions together as a group during their time here, but otherwise are left to share everyday life with their American host family.  I deeply admire these students' courage.  Leo is bright and friendly and not afraid to communicate with us at all.  His English is excellent.  He has picked up many of my son's colloquialisms and likes hanging around the neighborhood with my son's gang of friends.  He loves hamburgers and fresh-baked brownies.

Hosting an exchange student exposes your family to new knowledge, new customs, and new friends.  We consider it an invaluable experience for our children.

Alhambra Part 4: Alcazaba Fort

Sitting in front of the Alhambra's Alcazaba.

When the Sultans of the Nasrid dynasty chose to build a palace in the foothills of Sierra Nevada on the plain of Granada, they needed a fortress, of course, on the highest point of the hill, to keep watch over their kingdom and defend the royal family.  The resulting Alcazaba, which just means fortress, still stands today and is one of the four ancient sites to visit in the magnificent Alhambra complex in Granada, Spain.

Visitors may enter the Alcazaba with their ticket to the Palace Nazare and/or Generalife Gardens.  Since the Alcazaba is right across from the entrance to the palace, plan to tour the fort before you enter the palace, and give yourself about an hour to see the Alcazaba.

Remains of the living quarters inside the Alhambra's Alcazaba.

What is there to see inside?  Ruins mostly, of the living quarters, stables, and dungeons.  The most fun is climbing up the defensive walls and watchtowers for expansive views over Granada.

Awesome views of the city from the Alcazaba.

Vending machine with soggy sandwiches.

I have a tip to share about eating/snacking while visiting the Alhambra.  The entire complex is enormous, and walking distances are far from one site to another.  There are two sit-down restaurants within the Alhambra walls:  the Parador de Granada restaurant and the Hotel América restaurant.  If, however, you don't want a sit-down meal, your choices of snacks and beverages are few.  After not finding anything, anywhere, we finally purchased a couple of soggy triangular-cut sandwiches from a vending machine in the small building that houses the restrooms.  I'm not really a picky eater, but these sandwiches were truly inedible.  Not until later did we find the small kiosk near the entrance of the Alcazaba that serves fresh bocadillos, beer, and other yummy snacks.  I took a photo (below) so that you won't miss it.

This kiosk is where you want to grab a sandwich at the Alhambra.

And, since I mentioned the restrooms, DO use the ones near the vending machine and the Square of the Cisterns bookshop.  They are the only bathrooms I found, they are free, and there is a balcony in the ladies room with a fabulous view over the plaza.

Read Alhambra Part 1:  Generalife Gardens here.

Read Alhambra Part 2:  Palace Nazare here.

Read Alhambra Part 3:  Palace of Charles V here.

Photo Friday: First Day of Summer

 Some images of summer fun on this first day of summer!

At the beach in Lagos, Portugal

Windsurfing in Tarifa, Spain

Gelato time in Paris.

This is my Photo Friday link-up to DeliciousBaby.com.

Don Bosco House in Ronda

Browsing a gift shop in the historic city of Ronda, Spain, last summer, my then 13 year old son spotted something he found interesting on a picture postcard and asked, "This looks cool - can we go here?"  Always eager to comply with input from the kids on our travels, we asked the shopkeeper where to find the pretty place in the photograph.  Casa Don Bosco was just down the road, and only 1.50€ per person admission.

There are other town mansions in old Ronda, but we were awed by our visit to Don Bosco.  The lavishly tiled backyard garden is spectacular, with unbeatable views of the mountainous valley and Puente Nuevo bridge.  

View of the Puente Nuevo bridge from Casa Don Bosco.

The gardens are split-leveled, with beautiful mosaics, benches, and fountains.

The interior of the house is luxuriously decorated.

Don Juan Bosco never lived in nor even visited this home.  It was built in the early 20th century and belonged to one of Ronda's wealthy titled families who then donated it to the Salesian Order, founded by the canonized Italian priest, St. Juan Bosco.  The home was made a historic monument in 1931 and now serves as a retreat for priests as well as a little-known, but very lovely, tourist attraction.